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STEP 4

Log Home Sealant Application Guide

There are four basic principles that need to be followed for maximum performance of a Chinking or Caulking compound.

1. Depth is 1/2 of width:
   While this is not always practical in log home joint design, it is better to fill a joint deeper than it is to make it too thin, because you need an adequate mass of material to absorb movement that will occur. Although, no joint needs to be deeper than 1/2", regardless of the joint width.
   Proper backer should be used to bring the depth up to within 1/2" of the surface. Do not fill excessive voids with chinking or caulking.
2. Two point Adhesion:
   In order for Perma-Chink or Energy Seal to maintain its seal, it must be applied such that it adheres tightly to the surfaces of each wood surface to be protected, and free to absorb movement across the center of the gap. The sealant material should adhere to only the log surfaces, with a freely floating band of sealant between them. The purpose of backer rod or trapezoid rod is to form the freely floating, uniformly thick band between logs.

   When sealant is properly applied over the backer it forms a rectangular mass (rather than "v" shaped cross section that would be formed without a backer) that releases from the backer material and maintains a weather tight seal to logs as they move. Proper backing material is closed cell or open cell backing rod for chink style construction.

   Breaker "tape" can be used on applications to chinkless style construction when the geometry does not allow for the depth taken up by foam rod will not work. In this kind of application, always apply enough sealant to make sure that the sealant is adhered to at least ¼ inch of the wood surface on either side of the breaker tape.

3. Caulking Reservoir:
   A Caulking Reservoir must be created that will have enough mass to allow movement.
   If you expect an 1/8" movement your joint width should be 1/2" (4 times expected movement). So, the larger the starting size, the less likely log movement will exceed the sealant's capabilities.
   A good rule of thumb is Gap width should be a minimum of one sixth of log diameter. i.e.: 8" log / 6 = 1.3" finished joint width.
   Observation of this rule will help create the proper reservoir for performance.
4. Application Conditions:
   It is best to avoid temperature extremes when applying Perma-Chink or Energy Seal. During periods of high temperatures, especially at low humidity, it is best to apply in shaded areas. Also, apply only as much as can be tooled before a skin starts to form on the wet sealant. We advise you to avoid application if air temperatures are over 90°F and surfaces are in sunlight. See additional cautions on blistering later in this guide.

   During periods of low temperature, adhere to the following guidelines. Never apply to surfaces that have frost on them. In cold periods, if daytime temperatures rise to 40°F, then you may apply Perma-chink and Energy Seal. Remember that at low temperature or at high humidity curing time is extended. This does not affect the integrity of the finished application after it has cured.

   After application, Perma-Chink and Energy Seal must be protected from washing water or windblown rain until they are adequately cured at their surface. Be aware of roof and gutter systems when rain is threatening.

5. Log Preparation :
   Log area to be chinked must be clean, dry, and free from loose or foreign materials.
   Do not apply to oily or glass smooth surfaces. Some paraffin based stains and sealants may cause adhesion problems.
6. Tooling and Finishing of Joints
   All joints after being filled with Perma-Chink or Energy Seal should be tooled by spraying a small amount of water onto the chinking and then smooth to desired finish. Always trowel in such a way as to form a good seal to the wood, and making sure to come out past the bondbreaker. Maintain a depth a little more than 1/4", as the material will shrink slightly when cured, 5/16" wet will dry down to about 1/4".

   Storage:
   Store pails of Perma-Chink and Energy Seal at moderate temperatures. Although the product is freeze-thaw stable, it is best to protect material from freezing. Also do not store in close proximity to radiant heat sources like fireplaces or wood stoves, as the excessive heat may cause material to start curing in the pail.

   There are two different log constructions: Round Log construction and Square Log construction. Round Log construction can be Full Round "Chink Style" construction and Milled or Pre-Cut Log Systems.

Round Log Construction

Full Round "Chink Style" Construction:

1. Select the correct size Trap Rod (trapezoid rod) that fits flush with log joint, so that it doesn't protrude out. Be sure that edges are flush with log surface, and do not protrude. Edges that protrude may cause a "thin" or weak point in the finished chinking.
2. Press rod into place, and glue or staple securely. There should be no "give" to properly installed rod. Use caution if applying glue, it should not be applied on surfaces that will be chinked.

            

   Apply Perma-Chink so there will be a minimum depth of 5/16" over the entire rod, and not to exceed 1/2"

Milled or Pre-Cut Log Systems

1. As many of the milled log systems will have very small joint areas, homeowners may not desire the look of a full chinked joint. In this case, especially if the desired joint is 1" or less, Energy Seal should be considered instead of Perma-Chink.
2. For proper installation of either Perma-Chink or Energy Seal, a bondbreaker should still be used. If the area is too small to accommodate a backer rod, masking tape should be used to create a bondbreaker.
3. Once the rod or tape has been properly installed, apply Perma-Chink or Energy Seal over the backer at the minimum depth of 5/16", not to exceed 1/2"
   
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Square Log Construction

Foam Backer Systems:

1. Many pre-cut log systems will furnish an Expanded Polystyrene (EPS or Beadboard) backer that may have been installed at the time the logs were erected, or it may be up to the applicator to install the board prior to the chinking application. In either case, the board should be installed as per the instructions furnished by the home manufacturer for proper performance.

   The board should fit snugly into the chinking area, and not have any gaps or sharp edges for the chinking to stretch over. Any fasteners used to secure the board should be galvanized to prevent rusting. Also take care not to sink the fasteners below the surface of the backer, as this will cause a "dimple" in the surface once the chinking material has cured. Remember, the smoother the backer, the smoother the chinking will be.

2. If the foam is not furnished with the home, efforts should be taken to secure the proper board, The use of improper boards may cause "blistering" because of the gases coming out while curing not being able to properly escape.  Always use EPS (Expanded Polystyrene) or Beadboard not Pinkboard, Blueboard or any other board that is not Expanded Polystyrene. The other extruded boards usually have a thin, transparent plastic film on at least one side. Beadboard has no film installed, and is easily obtained at most building supply outlets.
3. Log systems that are hewn flat on two vertical sides should have Expanded Polystyrene bevel cut to fit the log profile. Once installed, it should be stapled in place to hold it securely. All "butt" joints should be fitted together tightly, and if any gaps are present, they should have Backer Rod and Energy Seal applied according to the application guide.
4. Pre-cutting the Beadboard slightly larger than the joint size will make it easier to handle. Finish cutting and installation should be done with a hot knife.
5. Log Systems that are hewn or sawn on all four sides should have Expanded Polystyrene cut to fit snugly into the chinking area, and pressed firmly into place taking care not to leave any gaps or voids between the logs and the foam.

   Any fasteners used should be galvanized, and installed in such a fashion as to not seat them below the surface, possibly causing a dimple in the finished chinking.

Log on Log or Solid Log Wall Systems:

1. Log on log systems present an entirely different set of installation techniques, as they are designed to be either chinkless or chinked at the discretion of the homeowner. They usually have a milled chink joint area on the exterior surface that is normally 2" or less, and the interior is usually a small "V" groove that is designed not to be chinked.
2. Since each manufacturer has their own criteria for design, the systems vary somewhat. In some cases, the chinking area uses the bottom 1" of the top log, and the top 1" of the bottom log, which puts the logs meeting in the center of the joint and in some cases the milled area is entirely in the bottom of the top log, or the top of the bottom log.
3. The chinking area is usually not deep enough for the installation of any normally available foam, so the tendency is to install the chinking directly to the wood substrate. Although it does get the chinking applied, it poses the potential for problems.

   The first being that the chink joint has no backer, other than the wood itself. Consequently, the material is adhered tightly to the top, bottom and back of the joint area. If there should be substantial log movement, the result will usually be a cohesive failure, or separation in the material.

   The second problem that may be observed, especially if the logs meet in the center will be a small "fold" of material that may stick out if substantial movement has occurred.

   The third problem is the possibility of "blistering" of finished material due to the gasses and vapors that are trying to escape from within the log. To reduce all of the above problems, simply install a backer tape over the vertical face of the joint. Take care not to cover the very top and bottom of the horizontal area the chinking must adhere to.

4. Apply Perma-Chink at the recommended thickness, making sure the chinking is applied wide enough to go 1/4" beyond the backer tape and adheres to the log surfaces.

Hard Board Spline Systems:

1. Install furnished spline in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
2. Spline board should fit tightly to upper and lower logs, with no gaps at seams or joints. In some cases, there will be a slot in the bottom of the upper log to slide the spline into, which creates a "floating" spline to accommodate any movement.
3. Apply Perma-Chink directly over the spline at the recommended 5/16" thickness, not to exceed 1/2"

Restoration of Failed Mortar:

1. Use Grip Strip or Backer Rod to fill horizontal gaps and cracks where mortar has separated from logs.
   Aerosol expanding foam may also be used to fill these areas. Be sure to trim away excess before applying Perma-Chink.
2. Expanded Polystyrene may be used to fill large gaps and voids where mortar has been removed.
3. Old Mortar, if it is solid and not crumbling, does not need to be removed prior to applying Perma-Chink, .
4. Perma-Chink is then applied over the entire surface, remember always go past the mortar to get good contact to the logs.

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